Bike Maintenance How to Fix a Flat Tire
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Every Ride |
Monthly |
Six Months |
Yearly |
| check tire pressure & add air if needed | clean the bike with a rag (or soap and water if it's real dirty) and inspect the frame and components for signs of wear such as cracks | clean and wax the frame to protect the paint/finish (not necessary on bare titanium frames); once it's clean, inspect the frame and fork for any cracks or damage | check all bearing systems: hubs, bottom bracket, headset and pedals: adjust and/or overhaul as needed |
| check the tire tread for wear and embedded debris that could cause a flat | wipe the chain and cassette cogs clean with a rag and earth-friendly degreaser and relube | check and replace tires if needed; also check your spare tube and patch kit to make sure the spare holds air and the kit has glue & patches | check all cables and housings for fraying, breaks, rust and corrosion and replace if necessary |
| check that the wheel quick releases are tight and that the wheels are secure | check the wheels for loose spokes | check the hubs, bottom bracket, headset: adjust and/or overhaul as needed | replace brake pads, rubber brake hoods and handlebar tape if necessary |
| spin wheels looking for wobbles, which indicate you should have your wheel trued | test with a wrench, the tightness of the: crankarms, pedals, chainring bolts, seat bolt, seatpost bolt, stem bolts, handlebar bolts and all accessory mounting bolts/screws | check all cables and housings for fraying, breaks, rust and corrosion and replace if necessary | clean and check wheels carefully for signs of wear such as worn sidewalls (braking surface) or cracks at the spoke nipples |
| squeeze brakes to make sure they're grabbing and check to see that the brake pads are in good condition and that they strike the rims (not the tires!) | lube the brake, derailleur and clipless-pedal pivot points | check for worn brake pads and replace if needed; also replace worn handlebar tape or grips | check the hubs, bottom bracket, headset: adjust and/or overhaul as needed |
| compress and release the suspension to check that it's working properly | lube the cables to prevent binding and check the cables for fraying and rusting and replace if necessary; | check for chain, cassette cog and chainring wear and replace worn parts as required | overhaul the pedals to check the bearings and add fresh grease; if you're using toe straps, check them for wear and replace if needed |
| check chain & add lube if it looks dry | check clipless pedals and cleats for loose screws/bolts | clean the drivetrain (chain, chainrings, cassette, front and rear derailleurs) with biodegradable solvent and rags | maintain and lube your suspension components according to the advice in the owner's manual |
| make sure you've got your spare tube, tools, pump, etc. | maintain and lube your suspension components according to the advice in the owner's manual | maintain and lube your suspension components according to the advice in the owner's manual | lube your frame and home pump |
You will need a few basic tools (refer to photo). A flat
repair is easy here's how it's done:
You'll need a pump (carried on
your bike or in a pack),
a spare tube (to replace the popped one) and tire levers (for removing the
tire).
Step 1
Open the brake: As soon as you get that "sinking" feeling or hear the
hiss of escaping air, let your ride partners know you have a flat (so they won't
disappear over the horizon) and stop. If it's a rear flat, shift onto the
smallest rear cog. The first step in wheel removal is opening the brake
(photos), which makes it easier to get the wheel out.
Open sidepull brakes by fully rotating the little lever on the brake upwards
(a).
Open linear-pulls (also called "V-brakes") by lifting the end of the "noodle"
out of its holder (b).
Some sidepulls are opened by pressing a button on the lever. Look for this if
there's no lever on the brake.
Open cantilever brakes (these feature a cable that runs over the top of the
tire) by lifting the cable end on one side out of its holder.
Tips
Step 2
Remove the wheel: Open the quick release (or loosen the axle nuts) on
the wheel with the flat and lift the bike to remove the wheel. To extract rear
wheels, it helps to pull the derailleur back slightly to clear the axle parts as
the wheel passes through (main photo). For fronts, you'll probably need
to hold one side of the quick release and turn the other counterclockwise to
create clearance to get past the wheel-retention tabs on the fork (inset
photo).
Tips
Step 3
Remove the tire and tube: Remove the valve cap and nut (sometimes
found on Presta valves: inset photo). For Presta valves, unscrew the tip
(inset photo) and press down to let all the air out. For Schraders, poke
the end of your tire lever into the valve to release all the air. Starting
directly opposite the valve, wiggle a tire lever beneath the tire's edge and pry
down to lift. If possible, hook the lever on a spoke (many levers are made to do
this), or hold it in place. Place another lever about 6 inches away from the
first and pry here (main photo). Continue with your third lever until you
can get one side of the tire off. Then reach inside and extract the tube. Pull
the other side of the tire off the rim or pry it off with your levers.
Tip
Step 4
Inspect the tire: It's important to find whatever caused the flat and
remove it. If you don't, the sharp item might still be in the tire where it'll
just pop your new tube. To find it, remove your glove (or use a rag), and run it
around inside the tire in both directions (photo). If something sharp is
still stuck in your tire, it'll snag the glove. Remove the nasty. If you can't
find anything, it's likely it got knocked out during the disassembly procedure.
Tips
Step 5
Install the tube & tire: 4 Easy Steps
1. Inflate the new tube just enough to round it out and remove any
wrinkles, and place it inside the tire. Stand the wheel up (rest it against your
shins) with the valve hole on top and hold the tire/tube over the wheel so that
the valve is on top (inset photo).
2. Place the valve partway into the hole and simultaneously push the part
of the tire edge (called the "bead") that's at the valve and closest to your
legs onto the rim. With both hands moving downward away from the valve, finish
working the bottom tire bead (the one closest to your legs) onto the wheel all
the way around. If it won't fit onto the rim, check that the valve is inside the
tire, not trapped beneath the bead.
3. With one bead in place, tuck the tube fully inside the tire and on top
of the rim, which will cause the other bead to rest flush against the rim. Work
this bead on starting at the valve as you did with the first. You may have to
push the valve into the tire to provide clearance for the bead. Once you've got
it started, work your hands away from the valve pressing the bead onto the rim
around the wheel.
4. With a few inches of bead left to pop onto the rim, the tire will
resist. Let all the air out. Crouch and rest the wheel on your knee to have
something to push against. Now, hold the bead in place with one hand and with
your stronger hand, push down to roll the stubborn section onto the rim with the
heel of your hand (main photo). But don't try to pop it on all at once.
Install an inch at a time, moving your hand along until you've fully installed
the tire. Got it? Good job!!
Tips
Step 6
Inflate and seat the tire: Place your pump on the valve and inflate
the tire. To prevent valve damage, brace it by wrapping a finger behind a spoke
(photo left) so you're pushing against your hand, not the valve. Inflate
the tire until it's just firm (not fully inflated). At this point, inspect the
tire to make sure it's "seated," which means that it's sitting correctly on the
rim.
If the tube gets trapped beneath a bead (photo top), inflating further
may blow the tire and tube off the rim! There's a bead line on the side of the
tire (photo bottom) that should be equidistant from the rim all the way
around on both sides of the tire. If it's not, or if you see a section of tube
peeking out from under the rim, let the air out, work the tube back into place,
reinflate partway and check the tire again. When it's seated correctly, inflate
it fully. Install the valve nut (if your tube uses one) and cap finger tight (overtightening
the valve nut can damage the tube and make it difficult to loosen it when you
need to fix a flat). Reinstall the wheel in the frame, close the brake quick
release or reattach the noodle or cable and you're ready to ride!
Tips
